I end up venturing out at about 7.30 am. The sun is rising and the city is awakening. I think the first thing I notice about Dubai is the haze. You can actually see the sky about halfway up the horizon, below it is a greyish, yellowish haze. I gather it is a combination - pollution definitely, but also I have to remember Dubai is a desert and most of it is sand, so I guess a lot of it is sand and dust as well. There is still a lot of construction going on around the place.
I have a tiny map that has no road names on it, just names of areas. I walk in a direction that I think is right, to try and find the River and Markets. I walk for about an hour and none of the street signs resemble anything on the map. I try to ask a few locals - but the map has English words so they cant understand it. Anyway I somehow manage to find the River. My sense of direction has not failed me! Its not much to see though. It is a busy highway of water taxis and cargo ships. Not the water taxis and cargo ships we would imagine. Huge big wooden contraptions with open decks. Painted in all array of colours, probably last touched up about 30 odd years ago. On the edge of the river there are bottles, plastic bags, bit of food and scraps. Loads of it. The water is a thick brown and flowing fairly quickly. Much as I love anything water, this doesn't quite do it for me. I head downstream towards the markets. According to the map there should be a spice souk and gold souk nearby. I stumble across the spice souk first - very accidentally as there are no signs or anything to indicate where they are. There is shop upon shop of spices - outside they have huge bags containing all array of spices. The bags are open at the top so it is like a sea of colour. And the smells. Mmmhh. Each shop has someone standing outside it "Madam, madam, come, come!!" I stop and chat to most of them. Well, try to. They each will pick up a handful of spices and hold it to my face, "What is this?" I get them all wrong. There is saffron, star anise, vanilla.. all array of spices and flavours! Most of the shops also have a gorgeous range of chocolates and dried fruits. Some of the owners offer a sample and they are amazing!
Next I stumble across the fish markets. Well actually I smell it first, then I look over and see a flock of birds around a big shed. I figure it will be a vibrant display of local culture. Im not wrong. Its still early but the locals are out in force. Again all the marketeers are shouting out over top of each other. Each one desperate for you to choose his wares over someone elses. Every stall is exactly the same. There is a range of fish, prawns, lobsters, squid. It is a market comparable to that in Melbourne. In the same general area there is the fruit market, and then an area with more spices, dried fruits and nuts. I love these sorts of places. It gives you an idea of the real people and culture - not the usual tourist hotspots. I guess in this respect it was good that I landed in Old Dubai because unless I was staying here I probably wouldn't have explored. I end up catching a taxi back to the hotel because it is starting to get closer to 30 degrees as the day wears on and although I am NOT lost I am unsure how long it would take to get back to the hotel.
Back at the hotel I check into my room. Its OK. It has 2 single beds and a bathroom. Although I am SURE it said it has wireless and a balcony. Which it doesn't. And yeah the pool is not working - that explains its suspiciousness. I have time to spare now so I head next door to the internet cafe and decide to check up on what the hotel claims in its advertising. Bad idea. I stumble across some reviews on the place. There is nothing good. Most have reports of thumping music until 4am every day due to the 9 (9?!) nightclubs on the bottom floor. That explains the action at 4.30 this morning! Another report is of a male staff member found in a hotel room that was occupied by the sleeping daughter. I went to bed with my pocket knife that night. All said and done though I had no problems there and had a good sleep both nights.The next day I explore 'New Dubai'. I taxi across town and it costs about $40. I start at Burj Al Arab. This is reportedly the most expensive hotel in the world, with golden interior. It is shaped as a big sail and set in the Arabian Gulf. It is reached by a small causeway once you pass the security gate. Which I couldn't. Maybe if I had my visa card to flash around. Or maybe not. So I stand and peer through the gates and take some pictures instead. Right next door is the Madinat Jumeirah. I wasn't intending to go here but the taxi driver recommended it. Im pleased he did. It is absolutely stunning. Im trying to think what it would be classified as - a 'complex' I suppose. It has several hotels, a shopping mall, bars, restaurants, a large central lagoon which has small passenger boats similar to those in Venice - to take patrons from one place to another. Its huge. The whole complex is in that dusky orange colour - giving the appearance of being made of mud and sad - but clearly not. There are grand flights of stairs with lamps lighting the way. The lagoon is crystal blue and also has strategic lights reflecting off the water. The place is dotted with huge palm trees, which are towered by the walls and turrets of the buildings. I spend a fair amount outside just looking at it all. I head inside and find that the shopping mall is just starting to open up. Vendors are opening their doors and setting out their wares. Its an interesting setup, kind of in the style of old Dubai but very upmarket. It is not the large open atrium of typical malls, but rather a winding set of alleyways (very easy to get lost). Because of this layout it is also quite dark so it is lit by lamps all along the way. The ceiling is very high with exposed rafters of dark red wood. The floor is tiles with beautiful intricate patterns. Each store is boutique style, and there are various outdoor pavillions that have stalls set up on old fashioned covered carts. You see such things as fine silks, clothing. rugs, shisha pipes and souvenirs. The bars and restaurants are all down by the lagoon and I would love to have a drink there - its exactly my scene, but its 10 am and I probably cant afford it anyway. I am finding the benefit of having a camera with the budget travelling - Instead of buying souvenirs I just photograph them!
Next stop is Palm Jumeira. This is one of the sand developments Dubai has become famous for. The other 2 are 'The World' and 'Palm Deira', both of which are just piles of sand which never took off and therefore have never been developed. Palm Jumeira however seems to be doing fairly well. I have to get a taxi there too and it takes me right to the end where the Atlantis Hotel is situated. You are not allowed to just wander into the hotel, but there is a shopping mall next door which I have a look through. The best thing about this mall is the toilets. Wow. Gorgeous big mirrors, lamps on the wall in the shape of elephant heads. Individual hand basins with towels. Love it. Otherwise it is a fairly small mall. I guess it does have an aquarium and also a water park which you have to pay for. Not in my budget! I head outside and walk along the promenade to get some photos of the Atlantis Hotel. I am walking alongside the Arabian Gulf so I take several moments to just sit on the wall and look out across the ocean. Lovely. I wonder back toward the mall and find that there is a monorail heading back toward the city. Its only about $7 and I figure it will give me some beautiful views so i do it. It is a great way to see the layout of the palm and the development that is occurring. I get some great pictures of the Atlantis from here too.
From the terminal I taxi off to The Mall of the Emirates. Im starting to feel like Im in the Amazing Race! The Mall of the Emirates is probably most famous for its ski field. Thats right. A ski field. In the middle of a mall. Only in Dubai right! Its nice but its not outstanding. Very small with fake trees and rocks scattered around. The actual 'ski field' is tiny - it is really more for people to get an experience of snow I guess. Which they did. It was lovely to see the children running around having snow fights and playing on sleds! Imagine the novelty for a Middle Eastern child! So this mall is more like your typical mall - very open and airy and white and marbly. Although untypical (as far as a Kiwi girl is concerned) is the amount of designer stores - Gucci, Versace, Dolce and Gabbana, DKNY, Ralph Lauren, Armani - I thought these were all just perfumes!! Seems not. I decided I wanted to go in and have a look. But there's men standing at each door. Krap. I walk past a few times and scope it out. Im wearing shorts, tramping boots and have a camera slung around my neck. Its now or never. Look straight ahead, and walk through the door. Done! I made it! Nobody marched me back out again! I casually look around for a few minutes and then pick something up for a closer look. Damn no price tag. Pick up something else, no tag either. You know its gotta be expensive! I walk out feeling somewhat dissatisfied. I could get the same shoes at Number1.Back to the taxi rink and off now to Burj Dubai (now renamed Burj Kaliba) - the tallest building in the world. I dont know how tall because it doesn't really interest me to be honest. But I guess I have to see it while Im here. Its nice. Next door is Dubai Mall which has much of the same designer stores. But what I like is outside the mall there is another huge man made lagoon. You can look across it and see the Burj Kaliba rising up against the horizon. Now thats more like it! I realise that this must be the place I have been told about - the lagoon has a fantastic light and fountain display that lasts about 20 minutes - but it doesn't start until 6pm - krap Im gonna miss it! I have to head back to my hotel to get picked up for the sand dune tour!
I get picked up at 3pm by a lovely chap from Pakistan. He tells me I should sit up front because we are off to pick up a large family. We get to the hotel and 12 elderly Indians trudge out in all their Sari finery. Oh no hang on - they make us wait about 15 minutes first while they get ready. They are outside and it takes about another 10 minutes for them to decide where to sit. We finally head off and after 10 minutes one lady makes the driver pull over on the highway because the fan is too hot on her feet. Dear lord. We hit desert after about 15 minutes. You can see houses dotted around the place - all in that creamy colour that looks like sand stone. They are huge houses and apart from the highway there appears to be no roads, it looks like you drive on the sand and straight through the gate of your house! Or maybe they don't drive. Maybe they have camels. Who knows. A little further on I see something that makes me chuckle. There is stark desert for miles, the houses have thinned out, then suddenly, like a mirage, a huge petrol station appears and we pull into it. It seems kind of ironic. I get out and hop off to the loo. When I come out one of the lovely Indian ladies is lounging against the door of the front seat and gazing at me with these ridiculous puppydog eyes. Honestly your not a child! And I am not feeling generous today so I am smile sweetly and proceed to open the door. Its not my noisy family in the back - I dont want to sit with them! (Now I know it sounds like Im extremely racist but Im NOT they were just very annoying) We get to a meeting point and wait for our 4WD. We are off duning!! This means 4WD + sand dunes + speed = FUN!!! In the back there is an African pair who I introduce myself to - Dele and Amira from Nigeria. They are lovely and we spend the rest of the evening together. We arrive at the dune camp and have a small ride on the camels, then try our hand at dune surfing, before heading into the Arabian camp for dinner. There is a central stage surrounded by low tables and cushions. Surrounding the camp is further little huts which hold things such as a henna artist, shisha, and traditional costumes to try on. I try all these things. Shisha - wow - great stuff! I would love to be able to bring a pipe home with me. The show consists of a Tanura performance - which kind of looks Spanish to be honest. A long haired chap dancing round and round in circles with a big swinging dress/apron and twisting plates and umbrella's and such things in his hands. Interesting for the first few minutes. Belly dancer next - again - interesting for first few minutes. However I had met some lovely people and was happy engaging in lively conversation. I got back to the hotel at about 10 pm. It was a fantastic night and overall a diverse, interesting and hectic time in Dubai!
